CATERINA
10:00 p.m.
Chicken in molé sauce
flaming red peppers and roasted chocolate
it was the
17th century
twelve year old Moghul princess from
Delhi
seized off Malabar coastline
by pirates
perfume of mango & coconut
spicing the offshore wind
& sold in Manila
the open market.
Her new owners
transport her to Acapulco in chains
tossed by waves in the ship's hold
her terror
where a savagely pious couple from Puebla puts down
some money
& presses the strange girl
into religious training.
Known as Caterina de San Juan
la China Poblana becomes a renowned
mystic
fearsome austerities
miracles & healings attend
her
In her adobe quarters she lifts
color'd threads
out of her visions
& embroiders on cotton blouses, shawls & skirts
what she sees
flashing ruby, bright magenta, parakeet yellow,
turquoise, gold & silver, pine green & charcoal
flowers & birds rise through the
stitchwork
courtyard animals
serpents
The style spreads through New Spain
& becomes "typico"
costume of the Mexican peasant
a sort of 19th century chic
says the guidebook.
While Caterina leans over
her fabric
nuns at Santa Rosa convent
under patronage of the Bishop of Puebla
(Sor Juana's shrewd adversary)
devise on the
occasion of a visit from New Spain's viceroy
an unknown dish.
Caterina's hand is involved
visions back there in the kitchen
chiles & spices, roasted & separately ground on stone
platters
chipotle, peanuts, almonds, aniseed, garlic
then steep'd in oily chocolate brought up
from the South
A dark pungent sauce
wild it seems
back there on the palate a hint
something distant & sweet
In Mexico there's been
nothing like it
it is the way food has been cook'd for centuries
in India
Andrew Schelling | 2 August
Contents | Mudlark No. 9
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